Collar



May 19,1925. 7 1,538,834

' A. H. M CARREL COLLAR Filed June 13, 1923 2 she 1 700, A? ""Wazzzzzwy ATTOINIY INVENTOR,

' May/ 19, 1925.

A. H. McQARREL COLLAR ATTO RN EV McCAEZREL, 01E WASHINGTON, ZDISTlrtIGT {3F (JQ'LUIIIBIA.

oonnun,

Application filed June 13, 1923 Serial No. 645,17.

To (ZZZ whom may concern:

Be it known that l, ARTHUR H. McOARuuL, a. citizen of the United States, residing at "l'l ushington, in the District of Columbia. have invented u new and useful Collar. which the tollowi is u specification.

' This invention relates to the manufacture of collars of the soft, or semi-soft turned down type The general object of the invention. is to produce a collar the type specified, which can be laundered without, the aid of starch, and whicln when ironed and ready for wear, will readily fold along at predetermined line, while the portions on each side of this line will be of uniform stifi'ness throughout This; cur \ed line, 'whicl'i is more flexible than the remainder oi? the fabric, is secured by beating up each separate pick of the filling 28 threads by m of. a curved reed, so that l the fabric in parallel ercs,

iodicully changing the Weave or the or both. the Weave and. the filling, for cnt number of picks to form the deurc-uete fold line. The change in is ellected by u change in the manner clone this line is made more flexible, but and the change in filling may ted. by shifting the shuttle boxes. is Woven in suitable widths so cclluifs are cut transversely of the words the filling threads vse oil the collar, While the Warp ransigersely thereof and form. QIl 'Wl1lCl1 the collar is fch'led.

ends to the inch than there are iillingz ren s. the collar on the fold line Where test Wear occuus, Wlll be more durunn it the fold run lengthwise oi? the preferred to manufacture the collar 1 tie which is specially Woven and T01 1c 01 an upper ply cloth and bottom clotln spot boui'ul at intervals so that the collar blsuln utter being cut out, may be separated to the required depth around its periphery by the insertion'of a cutting knife, into lw separate strips which are inturned and hemmed to form a collar with perfect edges, and which will be the sumo on both sides. The coll-ii when so made why he formed wi h integral tubs, or separate tabs may be inserted between the foldeddn edges adding the harness so that the fabric there are considerably more Warp and stitched simultaneously with the stitching of the edges.

For u more complete exposition of the Weaving of the special fabric from which the improved collars are manufactured, and o! the loom of special constructioirby means of which the fabric is woven, reference may be made to my co-pending applications filed June 13, 1923, Serial Numbers 645J80 and 645,179.

'l'hc invention which forms the subject, issuer of the present application will be understood from the following detailed desci-i plion when in connection with the accompuuyinc' drawings, Which illustrate the in- \enllion in its preferred form.

in the drawings:

Figure l is u perspectiveview of a com plcted collar, constructed in accordance with my lIlVQll't-lOlL Figure 2 is e plan view of a piece of fabric with a plurality of collar blanks marked out thereon.

igure 8 is e diagrammatic View showing the course of the Warp threads through one style of fabric from which collars may be manufactured.

ll igure L is a similar View of another type oi fabric, specially designed for the punpose-of the invention,

Figure 54s a plan View, with 21 portion shown in section. of a collar blank'prepared for heinrning.

i-Figure 6 is a detailed sectional View show inc the manner of preparing the edges of the blanks.

Figure 7 is a detailed sectional View showin the edge of the collar completed. I

Figure 8 is a similar View showing the manner of attaching it separately prepared tub.

Figure 9 is n detailed plan View of a porlilOIl'Ol {l collar having an integrally formed tab.

' The special fabric, illustrated in Figure 2, the manufacture of which is more particularly described in the above mentioned up? pli'catiou.t'Scriul Number ($45,180, is Woven as shown with the Warp threads running straight, lengthwise of the fub1'ic,-and-With lthe filling threads running across the fabi-i'ciu parallel urcs, hafing a radius of about feet, in order to conform closely with the wide so that the collar blanks may be cut transversely thereof leaving sufficient margin for the turning in and finishing of the edges, and for the integral tabs if such are desired. For the manufacture of a standard numberlt collar, a. fabric about eighteen inches wide is required; The fabric is made up of a succession of patterns, each including a narrow curred strip or fold line- 10 conforming to the curvature of the filling threads, and which is of a different weave or construction from the remainder of the pattern. The width of this strip is of a suliicient number of picks to. form the dcsired fold line of the collar, and these special strips are so woven that the fabric will he more flexible along this line than elsewhere. The collar blanks are thenmarked off and cut on the line 11 in such a manner that the strip 10 will traverse the blank longitudinally on the line where the collar should be under the successive filling: threads of theupper and lower plies, and between the two plies run the gut threads Q. "When it is desired to change the weave soas to form the narrow strip 1f), the harness is shifted in a different manner and each binding thread K runs with a warp thread i, and

each gut thread G runs with a warp thread D, thus forming two plies which are entire ly separate throughout the width of the strip, so that they offer less resistance to the folding strain than is odered by the main portion of the fabric in which the binding thread runs alternately above and. below the successive fillingthrcads of-each ply. ln this narrow strip, a filling; tllrcad of different character may be used if desired. this being effected by shifting thleshnttle boxes in a manner well known to those skilled in the art. After a strip of a predetermined number of picks has been thus woven, the weave is then changed back to that previously described.

In the diagram shown in Figure l, the normal weave consists of an upper two-ply cloth woven from the warp threads A. ll, (.1, D and K and filling threads W in the same manner as the fabric shown in Figure 3 and also includes a single plain bottom cloth woven from the warp tl'ireads M and N and fillingthreads lV. The upper and lower cloths are woven separately from each messes separately from the single plain bottom cloth except for the spot-binding effected by the gut thread'flr, is designed for a special purpose. The binding stitches of the gut thread will be close enough together" to give the fabric the appearance of the usual threeply fabric, in which the several plies are all closely bound together, but it has the ad vantage that by cutting the gut threads where they pass between the upper and lower cloths, the fabric may be separated into two separate cloths. the spot binding in the fabric in the space between the pat terns being so varied as to readily admit of the 1nscrt1on of the separating knife.

rlr fabric woven as illustrated in Fin-urt- 3, consists of a double ply woven cloth, the uppe and lower plies being: bound together on each pick by the binding thread as shown, and also containing: a gut thread; not hind-- ing with the plies, but lyiunbetween them with the solo object of adding body to the fabric. It will be noted therefore that this fabric is not separable into its con'iponent plies, is thecasc with the fabr'c illustrated in Figure in the manufacture of collars from the fabric illustrated in Figure 3, the collar blanks are stamped out oversize, and the edge of the fabric then turned over on itself, and then stitched and bound with finishing tape, the collar being: made from a stamped blank, either with integral tabs or with. detached tabs. This is the usual. method heretofore used in finishing collars, which have always been constructed from pl fahrics which axe not separable. The construction of collars from the fabric illustrated in Figure 3 according to the present invention however, is a distinct improvement over the former method, in that the blanks are-so stamped that the narrow curved strip 10 forms the fold line, and the ill] warp threads run transversely across the same. i

In manufacturing .the collars from fabric woven as illustratt'ld in Figure the blank 12 is separated along its edge, as shown at 13, by cutting the binding stitches of the gut threads, with a sharp lroifc. The edges 1st and 15 are then folded lll\\';ll\ll upon themselves and hemmed by machine stitch ing, as shown at 16, thus bringing the collar lliu ' feel",

mess-seto the right size, at the same time finish log the some from the one blank, "perlhus ill] will be. seen, that o, collar so produced without the use of tape and will also he reversible.

As shown in Figures to 8, the talus ll cut cud prepared separately and in; sorted. role the ends of the collar, and

s'cltched at the some time that the leftei" is hemlfe'd. The collars may also be made with integral tabs.

filmed-down, semi-soft collars as here-- 'tol 'o e made from a single piece of fabric stamped out "from a blank, the blank is out over size and the raw edges thereof are turned over and bound with tape-and se cured by stitching, in some cases the row edges being previously -\vh.ip-stitched, In such collars Where the tzihsare a part of the original blank concave corners are developed of, the point iiidicaled at 18, Figure 9. ln

cllei'optto coznplele and finish such collacs with the added edge tape, it is impossible to make job of the return of the cape sucl, sive corners, Then, too, these comers are exposed in the Wearing of. the collar, and so is the tape on the reverse side of neck hand at this point. These e unsightly and detract from the 2%., meme of the coll-aiwhen being worn. with a view overcoming-chi larouhle in lie-mining; around the concave cor-hers, and further With a View to making these corners sharp and. distinct, as they ,should be, that the blanks stomped old: as outlined above; and in hemmircg around the edges, separate and detached is s, previously psepsrcd, o'l'e inserted between the Jll EqS of the fabric kind become fastened in pace in the hemmiiig; shove zrelei'i'ccl to locoymectioo with Figures to 8 o. port of the unii howe er, upon she collblank i1 l 19 The mbs thus become o es, ll; Wlll'he seen, is to Figure 9 he out with d zhe edges finished by cg in. the manner which results far superior to d with v by twee,

'he claims of lhe presehis application we cli ected particularly to c collsi" having 21 curved fold line, the fabric being wovesond the collar being out in such a manner that the WHIP threads run trensversely .ocross said fold line and willie filling tl'ireeds follow the curvature thereof. Claims specifically directed to the spohbindlng and the manner in which the me "iiol ed 'e the collate is foimed will he plicstion.

lllost of the Il illllll "will he of perfect finish in a separate Eli in folding falls mainly upon the'filling threads where they cross this line. In collsis mode according;- to the special method herein described, however, the folding stress will fell upon the Warp threads Where they cross through the line, and the collars so made Will be much more durable. The Warp threads run in parallel straight lines, While the filling threads min in parallel arcs, so that the density is uniform iliroughout the fabric, the ends per inch Well as the picks per inch remaining uniform, whereas in a comically Woven fabric Lhe density varies across the Width of the fabric, being greatest on the inner edqe and least on the outer edge, due to the radial. position of the picks in such comically oven iabrlc, By monulacturmg collars as herein described, therefore, from a list fabric of uniform density, and having none of ,the internal stresses which are created by the conical take-up motion, many difliculties in the subsequent treatment of the "fabric are obviated, and the expense of manufacturing the collar is materially reduced.

It is to he understood, however, that; the special weaves herein'describcd are merely for the purpose of illuscrssion, and that-the some mey vsry hot J. in the manner of shifio mg the harness and in the character of the threads used ln wesving. ll; is my intem tion, therefore to include'ell such variations .both in the weaving ms in the method. of

m erizicle oil manufacture, s turneddcwncollsr hevl curved fold line and made from closely Woven multiply fabric in which the Warp shrouds run transversely across the fold line, and the fillln lhreads followv the curvaiure of said fold ll :Eold lise having "the same strength but of different Weave and. more flexible than the remainder of the collsz",

3. an article of manufacture, :3. onepicce turned-clown collar made from multiply fabric with o curvilinear fold line having a filling thread of different character than the remainder ol the collar, sold fold line greets? flexibility than the rest of the collar, the mimher of threads and filli g threads to the inch being uniform tl' .oghooid the colleo Ill) lie, said down collar made of multiply fabric with the warp threads running transversely across the fold portion of the collar, said fold portion being of distinctive weave and more flexible than the remainder ofthe collar, the number of warp threads and. the number of filling threads per inch being uniform throughout the collar.

6. As an article of manufacture, a turneddown collar made of multiply fabric and having a curved told line with the warp threads running transversely across thesanie, and the filling threads following the curvature of said fold line, certain of the plies being periodically bound together throughout all portions except at the fold line of the collar, so as to. "form a unitary fabric,

Leaeese said plies being separate from each other at the fold line so that each bends independthreads running across the fold portion and 3 the filling threads following the curvature of the fold portion, certain of the plies being periodically bound together throughout all except the fold portion of the collar so as to form a unitary fabric,.said plies being separate from each other at the told portion with the binding threads ClOSSiIlL said told portion side by side with the warp threads,

so that each ply of the fold portion bends independently of the other, thus rendering the fold portionniore flexible but no weaker than the rest of the collar.

In testimony, that I claim the foregoing as niyown, I have hereto afiixed my signature.

ARTHUR H. MCCARREL. 

